Little was known about the existence of a vast bird sanctuary in Balanga, a small city 100 kilometers to the northwest of Manila. It is, in fact, a new discovery and was recently declared a protected natural habitat by the city mayor. Nevertheless, there have already been other famous birding sites throughout the Philippines. The marshlands of Candaba in Pampanga and Olango Island between Bohol and Cebú play host to a variety of migratory birds that flock the country during the winter months.
Balanga is not obscure to many Filipinos. After all, it is the capital of Bataan province. Balanga also lies along the route of the infamous Death March and a key town during the battle against the Japanese invasion. Today, Balanga is a bustling city home to about 90,000 souls. As with many Philippine cities, rapid urbanization led to the demise of many historical and sometimes centuries-old edifices. The old Plaza Mayor is now planked by gigantic shopping malls. The Balanga Cathedral now seems like it is just a replica of its storied past. American fast-food restaurants now line the narrow streets of the city’s poblacion and noisy, polluting slow-moving tricycles have now replaced the old calesas.
With all that blight of third world urbanity, Balanga surely won’t prop up on anyone’s list of must-see heritage sites. However, the city has found a new attraction by way of its seashore, which was mostly ignored until recently. It wasn’t long ago when the mayor of Balanga declared the mangrove forests along the coasts of barangays Tortugas, Sibacan and Puerto Rivas as a protected natural bird sanctuary. Today, two viewing decks and an information pavilion was set up in Tortugas as Balanga had made it to the map of bird-watching enthusiasts.
Balanga’s mangrove forests have long been a refuge for thousands of migratory birds that stop in the Philippines during their yearly exodus to the south. They fly to warmer countries to escape the harsh winter temperatures of Northern China and Siberia. The perfect time to witness the vast variety of species in this natural aviary is usually in January and February, but flocks of birds do arrive as early as November. According to the Wild Bird Club, there are about 600 species of bird found throughout the Philippines. A majority of them, about 400, are migratory. Many of these migratory birds find themselves feeding on elements in sanctuaries such as this one in Balanga. From the viewing deck in Tortugas, one can already see a mélange of species, including egrets, kingfishers and seagulls either perched on wooden bamboo sticks erected on soggy coastal land or atop the many mangrove trees that line the seashore. A morning trip early in December will produce a sighting of at least a dozen species. Birds are usually elusive and most of the time, the only way to observe them in their natural habitat is to distance yourself from them. A pair of binoculars will always come in handy and cameras will have to have longer lenses to be able to capture these birds.
Away from the view decks, a walk along the coastline reveals an intriguing, yet saddening reality of the mangrove forests that play host to the migratory birds. They are bathing in trash. The bird sanctuary lies along the coast of Manila Bay, a notorious cesspool of urban waste. Indeed, a walkthrough among the mangroves seems like a stroll in a sandy, beachside market. Everything from knapsacks to slippers, vinyl floor tiles to beer bottles somehow find their way from the shanties and dumps of anarchic Manila to the once virgin coastlines of Bataan. Nevertheless the birds come to flock the forests because they are breeding grounds for the many organisms that these birds come to prey on.
Apart from the coast, migratory birds also find their way to the fishponds inland. Balanga is largely an agricultural and fishing community. While homes are starting to creep from the poblacion towards every direction, it is pertinent for the city to retain these ponds and farming lands to keep the city’s economy rolling. Birds fly inland to feed on insects and fish that populate these ponds. It is here that a compelling story of hope comes to supplant the disappointing sight earlier at the mangrove forests at Tortugas. Despite an uncomfortable proximity to human settlement, birds roam freely in the fishponds. Different species of egrets, ducks, swallows and kingfishers can be found among trees and irrigation waterways. According to one farmer, Balangueños respect the natural habitat of these birds, which have come to be part of their city as temporary dwellers. As a matter of fact, the local government has imposed stiff fines for anyone who tries to capture these birds or ruin their habitat, whether it be the mangrove forests or the fishponds. No words can describe how surreal these birds make of the contrasting landscape. Without question, it is quite a sight to see that they are seemingly at ease in an environment surrounded by creeping urbanity.
Although Balanga may not seem to be the ideal place for a vast natural bird sanctuary, it sure does offer an amazing habitat that can delight both hardcore bird watchers and curious travellers alike. The juxtaposition of haphazard urban sprawl and mangrove forests and fishponds constitute an interesting vista that exudes a sight of irony and, interestingly, of hope. While the core of Balanga has been run over by population growth and uncontrolled development, its outskirts play host to an amazing display of avian varieties. A visit to Balanga without seeing the birds is the same as visiting Paris without having a glimpse of the Eiffel Tower. It is the city’s only treasure for now and it seems like the birds will be there as long as winters come and they remain protected under the auspices of responsible Balangueños.
To get to Balanga is an easy commute. The city is just under two hours away via car through the North Luzon and Subic-Clark-Tarlac expressways. Buses also regularly travel between Manila and Balanga. The Wild Bird Club of the Philippines also offers guided birding trips to the natural sanctuaries in the villages of Tortugas and Puerto Rivas. For more inquiries on these birding sites and guided tours, you may visit their website at www.birdwatch.ph.
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